Page 4 March 6, 2014 Deluca Trattoria: Authentic Italian Eatery Raises the Bar By Brian Simon It took some time, but Downtown El Segundo has emerged as a Southland dining destination with an eclectic mix of eateries all within walking distance of one another. Already a popular go-to spot from its opening in the fall of 2007, Richmond Street’s Deluca Trattoria has upped the ante since the arrival last April of new managing partner Andrea Francesco whose goal is to provide authentic Italian cuisine and a signature experience. Judging from a recent Herald staff visit to Deluca, Francesco definitely means business. It’s always commendable to strive to make a good thing even better. For Francesco, getting to the next level meant a commitment to not only upgrade the quality of the food and wine but also the service. “The first thing we did when I came in was to work with staff to improve the restaurant,” he said. “We built a team and reorganized schedules to build relationships with the patrons and create familiarity.” Francesco next went to work on the menu ingredients, with the goal of going “farm to table fresh” with everything homemade and handmade. “In running a business, you can get into a comfort zone with your suppliers,” he warned. “So we’re changing the supply chain to look for more local sources and to gain access to the freshest possible, hand-selected produce from the tomatoes to the carrots to the onions.” The kitchen has also moved from dry pasta to the fresh stuff--delivered to the restaurant within 24 hours of being handmade just like it is in Italy, Francesco noted. “It makes a huge difference.” Additionally, the sauces are made from scratch, chickens are free range or organic, seafood is sustainable and steaks are prime. Chef Luis Rosales, who has cooked in Los Angeles area kitchens ranging from fine dining to casual for more than 20 years, adds his personal flair to the ever-evolving menu that now boasts several new entrees. He and Francesco also continue hen I was growing up in New York, W part of every Italian mother’s cooking skills was to learn how to roast peppers. These beautiful red and green bell or sweet peppers were an essential part of any antipasto salad platter. The trick was to almost burn the outside of the pepper without ruining the sweet meat that the charred skin was protecting. To place a platter of fire roasted peppers in good olive oil and sea salt was the perfect way to start a meal. Served with cheese sausages and crispy bread set the tone for the meal. The Chef and how to bang them by Chef Shafer Fire Roasted Bell Peppers to fine-tune the house favorites by testing new ingredients and concepts virtually on a daily basis. Nothing is ever set in stone. Coming from an Italian family (his mother lives in Florence) that produces wine in the mother country and imports internationally, Francesco not surprisingly made a complete revamp of Deluca’s wine list—which used to be predominantly domestic. The wine bar now focuses on mainly Italian selections with only about 20 percent coming from California plus a few choices from notable areas such as France and Argentina. Francesco definitely knows his vino—he is an Italian wine expert and educator who teaches food and wine, consults for restaurants throughout California, and even serves as a wine judge at international competitions. His wine list is thoughtfully considered in order to pair with individual food items. The roster of Italian varietals and blends is one of the more interesting and extensive in the entire South Bay—particularly on the red side. Here you’ll find several top-notch Super Tuscans, Amarone, Barolo, Brunelo and much more. Happy hour selections are available on some of the wines between 5 and 7 p.m. and all bottles are half-off on Wednesdays. Deluca also features a number of craft beers you don’t see every day, including a few from locales such as the Czech and Slovak republics, as well as the local El Segundo Brewing Company’s own Hop Tanker Double IPA. The restaurant hosts a craft beer tasting every Friday night. During the Herald visit, we sampled a mix of house specials and longstanding favorites. The popular and amply portioned Insalata della Casa is a personal addiction, with its intriguing blend of chopped lettuce, tomatoes, mozzarella, grilled chicken, dried cranberries, white beans and roasted nuts in a tangy red wine vinaigrette. It has changed subtly in recent months and is even better than before—it’s a tad more peppery, with the mozzarella now imported from Italy and the beans of the cannellini variety. We enjoyed it with basket of hot, freshly baked bread dipped in a wonderful garlic/olive oil blend. We also devoured a new menu item—the crunchy, baked garlic parmesan toast and it was good enough for us to toast to it. On the entrée side, the Pollo al Ripieno was particularly outstanding, featuring a perfectly cooked chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese and ricotta and topped with a flavorful sauce that seemed a blend of Marsala and marinara. The dish also comes with roasted red peppers, broccoli and mushrooms. Herald CEO Heidi Maerker proclaimed that night’s special risotto as the best she had ever tasted. Risotto (an Italian rice dish cooked in broth to a creamy consistency) has always been a flagship dish at Deluca. This evening’s version included chunks of chopped turkey and ham as well as peas and asparagus for the perfect blend of soft and crunchy elements. Even better, Rosales added several grilled tiger shrimp to the mix. Other notable dishes included the simple, but classic spaghetti with fresh basil, sundried tomatoes, garlic and parsley; and tender, sliced, braised beef short ribs enlivened with a wonderful red wine reduction and accompanied by sauteed peas, carrots and “smashed” potatoes. The kitchen also turns out some very fine pizzas, with thin-crust pies that can feed a couple of people and taste just as good the next day. I like to use the simple Margherita (tomatoes, basil and mozzarella) as a benchmark for pizza craft and Deluca nails it. The menu features over a dozen pasta selections, additional pizzas, salads, soups, antipasti, and entrees highlighting chicken, veal (including a brilliant Osso Bucco), lamb and seafood. Desserts include classic staples such as Tiramisu, Italian gelatos, chocolate torte and Crème Brule, but be sure to look into whatever the weekly special might be. Despite being full to capacity, our group tore through a stellar cheesecake with a light Graham cracker crust and topped with raspberry chunks. The sweet stuff goes particularly well with espresso or cappuccino—a decidedly Italian way to wrap up a good meal. Deluca has a warm, rustic feel and welcoming décor. There is also a front veranda patio with a view of quaint Richmond Street, as well as a private rear patio and bistro lounge ideal for parties or special events. Thursday through Saturday night starting at 6 p.m. by the bar area, you can catch a rotating roster of talented artists performing a variety of musical styles (jazz and pop standards in particular), with the house upright piano featured most evenings. The restaurant manages to work equally well as a family eatery, a spot for date night, or the ideal venue for single folks to sit at the wine bar sipping some Chianti, nibbling on pizza and taking in some live music. Francesco has indeed succeeded in bringing the authentic trattoria experience to El Segundo and he continues to look for ways to improve. “If I ever rested on my laurels, my grandmother would turn over in her grave,” he said. “A recipe is never perfected…” Deluca Trattoria is located at 225 Richmond Street. It is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to p.m. and for dinner Monday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays feature an all-you-cat-eat pasta special, while entrees are two for one on Tuesday. For more information, call 310- 640-7600 or go to Delucapasta.com. • “I like to use the simple Margherita (tomatoes, basil and mozzarella) as a benchmark for pizza craft and Deluca nails it.” Ingredients: 1.) 6 large firm bell peppers 2.) 2 tablespoons of olive oil Rub the peppers with the oil and place on an open flame or grill Char them on all sides till the skin or outside is a black color, but not burnt. Keep turning the peppers till all the sides have been charred. Place the charred peppers in a plastic bag and close the bag to let the peppers steam, about 5 minutes. Remove the peppers from the bag. Peel or brush off the charred skin with your hand. Rinse the peppers under a light stream of cold water. Remove the core and serve with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of sea salt. Happy eating! •
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